Ancient Greece, Ancient Egypt, and 1515-1620

Ancient Greece

The Ancient Greeks had limited variety in their costumes and garments. However, their dress was regarded as both graceful and elegant. Some identifying features of Greek costumes include beautiful blousing, draping, and the use of simple shapes

The Greeks appreciated the natural form of the human body and created shaping through the use of belting and pins called fibula. Greek garments were relatively spartan. In order to distinguish garments, border patterns known as Greek fret or key could be woven, embroidered, or painted on. Additionally, ancient Greek garments could be decorated all over with large floral motifs or geometric patterns.

Examples of Greek key and fret

Further, to mimic the architecture of the time, ancient Greeks focused on the use of rectangular shapes.

Classic Greek fashion shown through column architecture

In this column, shown at the British Museum, you can see how the dress is long, rectangular shaped draped garment. It could have been worn by a male or female. The belting and draping adds a little bit of shape to the human figure. However, the draped garments allow the body to show through in its natural form in ways that represented how the Greeks appreciate the natural body.

I think its truly incredible to observe the amount of movement the ancient Greeks were able to capture in their sculptures. As you can see in my designs, I am inspired by the elongated silhouette, flowing, draped garments that highlights the natural form of the human body.

Ancient Egypt

Ancient Egyptian costume remained largely unchanged over a period of 3,000 years. The main items of clothing worn by the ancient egyptians were draped garments with minimal construction. They were form fitting and had stylization of the form. They were very interested in youthful images and used mathematical precision with pleating and triangular shapes. They were often decorated with embroidery, beadwork, fringe at the end of the cloths, or metal appliques inlaid with polished precious stones for the wealthy.

Ancient Egyptian wrap dress with embroidery detailing

The basic female garment is called a Kalasiris and was a simple, close fitting tubular sheath dress held up by straps. The basic male garments were loin cloths made of linen or leather. Both male and female garments were pleated and draped long robes or wrapped gowns. They may have worn cloaks or shawls of various lengths. Additionally, the standard fabrics of use would have been bleached white linen, leather, wool, cotton, reads, papyrus plants, or gold thread for embroidery.

The main qualities found in Egyptian art and fashion include: precision, exactness of measurement, careful placement, and planned proportion. The most interesting thing I learned was that the pleats on the Egyptian clothing would have been a sign of status. It would take time and great attention to detail to create the mathematical pleating and it would have to be repeated before each wear.

I found the Rosetta Stone to be one of the most interesting pieces we saw because of the story behind how they interpret ancient Egytian hieroglyphs. Obviously, it would make sense to believe that each picture stands for something like a word or a sentence rather than a sound. It is incredible that a man would be genius enough to figure out how to interpret an entirely different language. Further, that his discovery could then be applied to many other artifacts where hieroglyphs are present. The visual elements that caught my attention was the fact that it was written in three different languages - one above the other. I think repetition is a powerful tool that I would like to incorporate into my fashion line.

Mannerist Costume

Late Renaissance (1520-1560):

An unnatural depiction of the human form known as mannerism became the style for this era. The female bust was flattened, the waist became unnaturally small, the hips became unnaturally full, and the head was elevated high by thick, stiff ruffs which made the face look the opposite of natural and relaxed.

Early Elizabethan (1560-1590):

In this period, bodies looked more like statues than natural beings. The Holbein portrait of King Henry VIII shows the use of fashion as a tool to show authority. The wide, unnatural shoulder emphasis, full skirted breeches, fur lapel, and overwhelming look to his figure is a great example of mannerist costume. The body is used a symbol of status, power, and authority (as shown below). Additionally, the slashing of garments was used in dramatic ways which reinforced the ornamentation of the costumes and gave an even more intense effect of fabrics being unnaturally forced through slits and a kind of highly controlled, ornamental, and unnatural effect.

Late Elizabethan (1590-1620):

Similarly to King Henry VIII, his daughter Elizabeth I, used fashion and imagery to display her royal power. During this time, the look of clothing continues to be an unnatural, artificial encasement and treatment of the form. The whole silhouette, in combination with the face being painted with lead based make up, creates a figure who is powerful and unapproachable. Only someone of the upper class could even afford to be dressed to this degree of discomfort, especially when most of her garments would have necessitated dressers to help her get into them. The final phase of mannerist costume is at its most extreme, and as in other places of history, when styles just cannot seem to get any more bizarre, there is often a complete reversal as you can see in the following period, early Baroque.

National Portrait Gallery

My favorite piece was the cartoon of King Henry VIII. The drawing was made by Holbein as a preparatory design or "cartoon" for a painted mural. The portrait has since been widely copied in other portraits and has become the most popular image of the king. I am inspired by the portrait because it is a reminder of what a powerful tool fashion can be. Due to King Henry's costume and stance he is able to convey a sense of power, confidence, and superiority.

Before visiting the museums, I did not realize how much art and architecture were connected to the fashion of each era. It's interesting to see as decor becomes more contemporary, the clothes become almost futuristic as well. It's also amazing to study how throughout history clothes have been used as some sort of statement. Today one might dress punk to see rebellious; whereas, in history, males such as King Henry VIII would dress and stand in such a way to show pride and power. Finally, it is intriguing to study how the fashions ideals of ancient times are still reflected and reverted back to in high fashion today.