Reflections

Westwood and Mcqueen

Jenny Good presented an interesting perspective when discussing designers Vivienne Westwood and Alexander Mcqueen. She focused on how both designers not only used their labels exclusively for fashion, but also as a political platform. Westwood opened a shop named SEX aimed mostly at the disaffected youth in London. The shop rebelled against social norms during a time when British culture was very reserved. SEX was risqué in the name of the shop as well as the type of clothing kept in stock.

The boutique: SEX at 430 King's Road, London - run by Westwood and McAllen

Good also talked about Westwood's partner McClarren who discovered and created the well known band the Sex Pistols. Like Westwood's designs, the band was real, raw, and expressive. Almost ironically, McClarren and Westwood used the Sex Pistols as an advertisement. The band reacted against normal traditions and encouraged listeners to be rebellious.
Alexander McQueen became Westwood's protege with the same rebellious reputation. McQueen came from an impoverished, working class background and was known as the "hooligan of British fashion. However, Mcqueen was revolutionary in the way that he turned fashion shows into an entire theatrical spectacle. For his Autumn/Winter '95 collection, McQueen's fashion show was titled "Highland Rape." The collection featured tartan, tweed, fur, and Scottish knit wear - all of which are associated with country life. As the fashion show progressed, tension built as little clues on the models, such as tears in the clothing, suggested sexual violence. The show was gruesome and featured overt exposure of the models. McQueen got a lot of backlash for the show. In defense, McQueen explained how his show was not only a theatrical narrative but also a political statement about the British treatment of Scottish people throughout history. Essentially, McQueen was attempting to show his audience how Scotland had been raped by England throughout history.

Another thing that stuck out to me about Jenny Good's talk was the comparison she made between Saville Row and James Bond. Bond is known for being impeccably dressed and has become a symbol of masculinity, power, danger, action, sex, etc with his "license to kill." However, in order to attain that license, Bond had to go through very strict training and experiences. Similarly, the Saville Row suit is about knowing the rules before you can break them. Designers must put extensive time and effort apprenticing and learning the rules before they are given their "license to break the rules" and begin designing their own non-traditional menswear.

Daniel Craig as James Bond

Wicked and Top Hat:

I got the pleasure of seeing the musical Wicked for the fourth time this week. As one of my favorite musicals of all time, I went into the show with high expectations. Before, I was wondering if I'd merely built up the production in my head; however, Wicked never seems to disappoint. I have previously seen the show on Broadway in New York and traveling productions in Atlanta and Nashville. While I may have some bias toward the musical, I believe this London production rivals New York's performance with its talent, set, costume, and overall performance.

I enjoy the musical because of the complex layers of foreshadowing, irony, and sarcasm. If you're not paying attention, you just might miss something. Although I've seen the show multiple times, I am always able to pick up and appreciate something new. I had never paid attention or given much thought to the costumes and use of color throughout the production.  I had not previously thought about what an important role colors play in costume design for plays and musicals. For example, when Elphaba and Glinda are at school Elphaba is dressed is all blue and is always the darkest person in the room while Glinda is dressed in all white so she is always the lightest person in the room - everybody else is a mix and falls somewhere in between. Therefore, either way Elphaba and Glinda always stand out. We were lucky to be sitting close enough to truly recognize the amount of craftsmanship and detail that went into each ornate costume. The costume designer did an incredible job creating a coherent design while also incorporating ideas and silhouettes from many different periods.

The close up of Elphaba's dress reveals costume designer, Susan Hilferty's intricate detailing

Whereas, Top Hat was just like watching a simple comedy, I enjoyed Wicked more because I believe the production challenges the audience. Not only does the audience have to pay attention to understand and catch all the joke, but the musical also encourages the audience to analyze their own decisions and intentions in life. It seems obvious, but this time I really took notice to the strong contrast between perception and reality shown through the two main characters, Elphaba and Glinda. 

David Bowie Exhibit:

While touring the exhibit, I learned David Bowie was not only a musician but also a performer, a radical, an artist, and an inspiration. As I was going through the David Bowie exhibit, I took notes of several quotes by Bowie, as well as some of the commentary about him. As I reflect on my own experience, I'd like to take a look back on what stood out to me about his accomplishments and why. However, some quotes do not require any explanation because I believe they speak enough about Bowie's work on their own.

"I wanted to be a trendy person rather than just a trend"

• I really liked this quote by Bowie because it is how I strive to be as well. In my biography, I mentioned that I enjoy pairing trendy pieces with classic pieces so that I look trendy without being dressed head to toe simply in the latest fads. I think it creates a more unique, lasting look. Similarly, Bowie wanted his influence to last longer than the latest trend.

"Catalyst for creativity might be a title or cover of a book, costume in a film, philosophy or oblique strategy of chance - visited art galleries all over Europe, reads books, watches films, goes to theater engages with avant garde talks to people…"

• I was intrigued by what inspired Bowie - I guess before this class I never thought about where designers got the inspirations for their designs. I think it is amazing to compare new designs to different periods clothing, architecture, art, etc and see the tangible influence.

"Discovers the stage and the possibilities of delivering his ideas through the creation of extraordinary characters"

• Bowie was one of the bravest individuals who did not see any boundaries as he continued to separate himself from others with his creative ingenuity.

"Personally controls his body of work… from music and album covers, costumes and stage sets - to realize vision actively seeks out collaborators… what doesn't work, he leaves out"

• I thought this quote was very important because it showed the extent of the work that Bowie put into all of his work. He had a vision and made sure it became realized in all aspects. He did not simply write songs and let others plan everything else for him.

"Challenges the status quo"

"Constantly reinventing himself Bowie is looking for a future that will never come to pass"

• In my notes, I had asterisks beside this quote because I thought it encompassed what truly differentiated Bowie from artists before and around him.

"Channels avant garde influences into music and performances with mass appeal and has an uncanny ability to anticipate and define the direction of pop culture"
"Understands his audience but by taking bold and unpredictable steps he guards his artistic integrity" 

• Bowie knew what his audience wanted; however, he was successful because he took it a step further by taking risks. He didn't settle for becoming popular. He was not satisfied to do what other stars were doing, Bowie was an entrepreneur in the way he put on a show. As the next quote explains, he was a... "conduit for new ideas and a visionary icon"

"Manages to project more charisma during one song than most modern day stars manage in a career"

Sabina Motesem:

I didn't know what to expect before meeting with designer Sabina. On the tube ride over all of the girls were discussing their ideal wedding dress designs. While I've given much thought to my wedding, I didn't have a clear picture in my mind of how I wanted my dress to look like the other girls. When we got to Sabina's dual purpose home and design studio, I was surprised by the comfortable, relaxed feel of the room. Sabina went through her design process and showed us pictures, magazines, mood boards, mock designs, and how her drawings were transformed from the paper to real life. It was amazing to see one of her designs, taken from pieces of architecture and skillfully placed on a figure, come to actuality. Then Sabina gave us figures and allowed us to sketch something on our own. At first I was pretty hesitant, especially with everyone else around watching; however, Sabina was very encouraging. Soon I began sketching a dress without really thinking too much about it. Once I had my silhouette down on the paper, I began adding more details. After I had my design complete, Sabina did a structure drawing of my dress to scale. She worked with me to make sure she was interpreting my dress correctly. I feel like the meeting with Sabina was the confidence boost I need for my work personally - she showed the class that we are capable of drawing and designing on our own. She even let us take some figures to go so that we could continue our sketching. Since the meeting, I have not been able to stop soaking in inspirations for my designs - whether it be from magazines, architecture, other designs, etc - but it has become second nature. I'll see something or perhaps even read a quote and think that's what I want to try and capture with my designs. Sabina made me realize the importance of doing what you love. She has invested so much time and money into her designs that it just now starting to pay off. It was incredible to see some of her designs on the red carpet.

Harry Potter Studio Tour:

I did not know what to expect with the Harry Potter studio tour because I am not an avid fan. However, I was so impressed by the extent of the displays and sets. It was so cool to see the sketches, models, and workshops for everything that went into the movie. The amount of work that goes into every scene in a movie had never occurred to me. I still can't even imagine the time and effort it takes to create an entire film - as well as how many people must be involved. Not only do you have the actors, producers, directors, the costume designers and make-up artists - but also all the people that have to make up each and every scene. They must have had thousands of people working on the series of films. I really enjoyed the way the tour was set up. At first, we had the introduction and then the audience was awed as the screen raised and we were able to walk through the front entrance of Hogwarts and into the Great Hall. As you walked down the great hall, you could take notice to some of the main character costumes and notice all the details. Additionally, it was amazing to see everything laid out on the table to see how much attention to detail went into every little minute thing. As you walked further through dragon alley, you could walk into the wand shop. They said there were thousands of hand painted wand boxes on display. It was amazing to see the costumes up close. The studio gave us access to costumes such as slytherin's uniform, hagrid's coat, dumbledore's exquisite outfit and more. What I enjoyed most were the scale models of some of the architecture used to film the movie. They mentioned how they used a small camera around the scale model of the castle for several of the movie scenes. It was an eye opening experience to see the film makers' ingenuity. I also enjoyed the make up section. You could see all of the masks made for the dwarves as well as all of the make up that went into creating each character. In the same room were design sketches and I thought it was very cool to see the entire design process and how each characters portrayal came to be. The Harry potter studio tour made me realize there aren't any limits to what you can do. If you can conjure the creative imagine in your mind you will find a way to actualize that dream. 

The Fan Museum:

When we went to the fan museum I was surprised by how impressive some of the fans were. The fans were a work of art in and of themselves. Some fans on display were simply frames of the rainbow silhouette fans with intricate detailing and painting on them. Others were unique because of their closure or their dual purposes. It was intriguing to see the different mechanics that went into each type of fan. There were fans with magnifying glasses to be used at the theater, fans with built in sewing kits, fans that came out of walking sticks, fans with clocks, and so on! There were even fans built in the shape of a violin and a revolver. Clearly, fan makers were very creative and adventurous. I also did not realize fans could be used as a form of language. Women during the time would use the fans in different ways and positions to give off a certain message to men. So not only were fans an item of luxury, comfort, and fashion but also a form of flirtation for women. Additionally, our time making fans ourselves gave me a small appreciation for the amount of time that fan makers spend on each individual fan. Granted it was our first time, but our simple fans took us at least an hour and a half to make. We simply made the fan and did not even worry about creating a design on the fan part. The amount of time and patience fan makers and artists must spend creating these incredible works of art is unimaginable. Our time at the fan museum made me realize how and why these fans from history are so unique and valuable. My favorite fans can be seen below. 

Fan with a mask

Fan with a revolver holster

Fashion Line: Main Concept

I spent a lot of time combing through magazines and fashion shows online to create different mood boards. After a few hours, I looked at everything I had pulled and noticed I was drawn to several recurring themes and jotted down short descriptions as follows:

Natural

Boho

Classic with a trendy edge

Neutrals - earthy tones

Inspired by nature:

       The woods - horns, antlers, bark, stone

Animals - patterns and skins, stones

Relaxed

Lace 

Fringe

Free spirited

Angles

Sequins and beading

Tribal

Layering

Simple

Backing

Beading

Embroidery

Therefore, for my line, I would definitely try and incorporate some type of fringe for a retro-tinged laid back elegance -a bohemian feel while still appearing chic. Flashy colors and busy prints are out of the question so my line with focus on basic blacks and whites as well as neutral, earthy tones. Since my color palette is simple, the cuts for my line become very crucial. Every detail counts so I will rely on embroidery, high gloss materials, eye catching cut outs, and an offbeat combination of materials. For example, my line will incorporate natural elements into cutting edge fashion by using those elements in unexpected ways. The clothes in my line will have touches of leather and skins, as well as fabrics that mimic the way the natural world appears. Further, another way to balance the lines "lack of color" would be with the addition of a contrasting accessory - for example, a bright cluth, metallic pumps, statement jewelry, etc. One of my favorite quotes is from Denis Bruna, curator of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris, who said "the body has never been natural - it is shaped by the fashions of each era." The quote struck me as a designer as I thought about each different period we focused on this month. However, through the use of natural elements I hope to discover and highlight the simple beauty of the natural form with my line.

Two contemporary designers that have inspired me are Jimmi WZ and The Woods Fine Jewelry.

Jimmi WZ bag

The Woods

First, I am inspired by Jimmi WZ and The Woods collections because of their use of natural elements. Jimmi WZ designs a bag unlike any I have ever seen before. I love the natural look of the rough cut leather and unique horn closure. With the woods, I am inspired with the strong contrast that can be observed throughout the entire line between vintage/modern, rough/smooth, precious/unfussy. Their bespoke designs make every piece special and unique. Similarly, I want consumers to feel like when they purchase an item from my collection, it is something that can not be found elsewhere - whether it be due to design specifically or quality as well. I promise the use of luxurious materials with refined detailing and exotic embroidery to produce a line with innate elegance and unmistakable style.  

My Fashion Line: Central Theme

Throughout my exploration of fashion, I developed a fascination with the use of a snake's skin and form. I own several different snake rings, a snake skin skirt, and snake skin sandals. As I walked around the Wallace Collection and the V&A, I took notice to the incorporation of snakes in paintings, ceramics, and jewelry. Then it occurred to me: the serpent is one of the oldest mythological creatures.  It is no wonder that they seem to be as popular now as they were dating back to ancient egyptian times. According to my research, what makes the snake so intriguing is its dual expression of good and evil, fertility and rebirth, poison and medicine. Throughout history, different civilizations have interpreted the snakes symbolism in different ways. The Egyptians saw it represent royalty and deity, while in traditional Hinduism it represents sexual passion and desire, and the Romans interpreted the snake as a symbol of everlasting love. Cleopatra seems to be the most notable historic figure to wear snake jewelry; however, Greek, Nordic, African, and Native Americans have all celebrated the snake in different forms with varying meaning. 

Serpent arm bands on display at the V&A

The Victorian era incited the rapid increase and return to the popularity of snake jewelry when Prince Albert proposed to Queen Victoria with the very first engagement ring. Similar to as shown below, the ring was the image of a snake with an emerald-set head. 

A genuine Victorian knock off
Queen Victoria was a trendsetter - one of the first inspire rampant copies of what she wore

Therefore, for Queen Victoria, the snake was an emblem of eternal love. Peaking in the 1840s, the snake represented wisdom and eternity and was a prevalent motif on rings, bracelets, brooches, and necklaces. Next, the snake had a resurgence during the Art Nouveau period with the help of French jewelers Jules René Lalique and Georges Fouquet. The snake played a prominent role in this period because of the heavy emphasis on the essence of nature.

Whether coiled in a knot atop a ring, tapered into a necklace, or wrapped around the wrist as a bracelet, the snake has remained a favorite amongst fashion and jewelry motifs throughout history. As shown below, the snake is the focus of Bvlgari's most recent ad. I hope to incorporate the snake into my fashion line's identity and use it as a central theme in my collections to come.

2013 ad campaign

Design Biography

Born and raised in Atlanta, Georgia, I could not be more of a laid-back, rebellious, southern, tomboy at heart. As a child, my free time revolved around getting involved in every sport possible; so, I never spent much time on my appearance. I attended a private school from kindergarten to graduation from high school where uniform was required. In the beginning, the only times I would dress up would be for formal occasions. Yet, I found myself intrigued with my mother's closet full of designer clothes, shoes, handbags, and other accessories. As a result, I started building the desire to cultivate my own sense of style. First, came my obsession with handbags. I can still the remember the time and effort I spent saving money for my first Louis Vuitton - a staple, I thought, for every female's wardrobe. Next, came my jewelry collection. While my mom had been steadily building me a collection of classic, fine jewelry, I decided to take matters into my own hands. Throughout middle school and high school, I collected beaded bracelets in every color and found them to be the perfect way to spice up my uniform. Of course, with my mother's help and influence, my obsession with all aspects of fashion from head to toe quickly followed.  For my personal style, I enjoy mixing classic, timeless pieces with edgy accessories and detailing in order to create a "trendy" look that is able to last. I do not purchase a new item for my wardrobe without considering several different ways in which it can be worn and paired with items I already own. As a designer, it is my goal to combine elements in order to produce a line that defines a woman of yesterday, of today, and undeniably of tomorrow. 

Honesty Bracelets
http://honestyjewelry.com/index.php/

Fall 2012: My mom and I
My inspiration and highest valued opinion

Summer 2013: Taking risks for fashion
Leather Tibi top with open back paired with snake skin tube skirt

Fall 2012: Still a tomboy at heart

Ancient Greece, Ancient Egypt, and 1515-1620

Ancient Greece

The Ancient Greeks had limited variety in their costumes and garments. However, their dress was regarded as both graceful and elegant. Some identifying features of Greek costumes include beautiful blousing, draping, and the use of simple shapes

The Greeks appreciated the natural form of the human body and created shaping through the use of belting and pins called fibula. Greek garments were relatively spartan. In order to distinguish garments, border patterns known as Greek fret or key could be woven, embroidered, or painted on. Additionally, ancient Greek garments could be decorated all over with large floral motifs or geometric patterns.

Examples of Greek key and fret

Further, to mimic the architecture of the time, ancient Greeks focused on the use of rectangular shapes.

Classic Greek fashion shown through column architecture

In this column, shown at the British Museum, you can see how the dress is long, rectangular shaped draped garment. It could have been worn by a male or female. The belting and draping adds a little bit of shape to the human figure. However, the draped garments allow the body to show through in its natural form in ways that represented how the Greeks appreciate the natural body.

I think its truly incredible to observe the amount of movement the ancient Greeks were able to capture in their sculptures. As you can see in my designs, I am inspired by the elongated silhouette, flowing, draped garments that highlights the natural form of the human body.

Ancient Egypt

Ancient Egyptian costume remained largely unchanged over a period of 3,000 years. The main items of clothing worn by the ancient egyptians were draped garments with minimal construction. They were form fitting and had stylization of the form. They were very interested in youthful images and used mathematical precision with pleating and triangular shapes. They were often decorated with embroidery, beadwork, fringe at the end of the cloths, or metal appliques inlaid with polished precious stones for the wealthy.

Ancient Egyptian wrap dress with embroidery detailing

The basic female garment is called a Kalasiris and was a simple, close fitting tubular sheath dress held up by straps. The basic male garments were loin cloths made of linen or leather. Both male and female garments were pleated and draped long robes or wrapped gowns. They may have worn cloaks or shawls of various lengths. Additionally, the standard fabrics of use would have been bleached white linen, leather, wool, cotton, reads, papyrus plants, or gold thread for embroidery.

The main qualities found in Egyptian art and fashion include: precision, exactness of measurement, careful placement, and planned proportion. The most interesting thing I learned was that the pleats on the Egyptian clothing would have been a sign of status. It would take time and great attention to detail to create the mathematical pleating and it would have to be repeated before each wear.

I found the Rosetta Stone to be one of the most interesting pieces we saw because of the story behind how they interpret ancient Egytian hieroglyphs. Obviously, it would make sense to believe that each picture stands for something like a word or a sentence rather than a sound. It is incredible that a man would be genius enough to figure out how to interpret an entirely different language. Further, that his discovery could then be applied to many other artifacts where hieroglyphs are present. The visual elements that caught my attention was the fact that it was written in three different languages - one above the other. I think repetition is a powerful tool that I would like to incorporate into my fashion line.

Mannerist Costume

Late Renaissance (1520-1560):

An unnatural depiction of the human form known as mannerism became the style for this era. The female bust was flattened, the waist became unnaturally small, the hips became unnaturally full, and the head was elevated high by thick, stiff ruffs which made the face look the opposite of natural and relaxed.

Early Elizabethan (1560-1590):

In this period, bodies looked more like statues than natural beings. The Holbein portrait of King Henry VIII shows the use of fashion as a tool to show authority. The wide, unnatural shoulder emphasis, full skirted breeches, fur lapel, and overwhelming look to his figure is a great example of mannerist costume. The body is used a symbol of status, power, and authority (as shown below). Additionally, the slashing of garments was used in dramatic ways which reinforced the ornamentation of the costumes and gave an even more intense effect of fabrics being unnaturally forced through slits and a kind of highly controlled, ornamental, and unnatural effect.

Late Elizabethan (1590-1620):

Similarly to King Henry VIII, his daughter Elizabeth I, used fashion and imagery to display her royal power. During this time, the look of clothing continues to be an unnatural, artificial encasement and treatment of the form. The whole silhouette, in combination with the face being painted with lead based make up, creates a figure who is powerful and unapproachable. Only someone of the upper class could even afford to be dressed to this degree of discomfort, especially when most of her garments would have necessitated dressers to help her get into them. The final phase of mannerist costume is at its most extreme, and as in other places of history, when styles just cannot seem to get any more bizarre, there is often a complete reversal as you can see in the following period, early Baroque.

National Portrait Gallery

My favorite piece was the cartoon of King Henry VIII. The drawing was made by Holbein as a preparatory design or "cartoon" for a painted mural. The portrait has since been widely copied in other portraits and has become the most popular image of the king. I am inspired by the portrait because it is a reminder of what a powerful tool fashion can be. Due to King Henry's costume and stance he is able to convey a sense of power, confidence, and superiority.

Before visiting the museums, I did not realize how much art and architecture were connected to the fashion of each era. It's interesting to see as decor becomes more contemporary, the clothes become almost futuristic as well. It's also amazing to study how throughout history clothes have been used as some sort of statement. Today one might dress punk to see rebellious; whereas, in history, males such as King Henry VIII would dress and stand in such a way to show pride and power. Finally, it is intriguing to study how the fashions ideals of ancient times are still reflected and reverted back to in high fashion today.

History of Fashion Maymester: Inspirtations throughout History

Chloé: 2013

Céline: 2013

While researching, I learned Chloé was among one of the first to create a line that was not only ready to wear but also followed the strict regulations of haute couture. I am aiming to create a line of high fashion using extraordinary materials while still feeling simple, relaxed, comfortable, and classic. First, I am inspired by these designers because while the designs may seem simple and relatively monochromatic, each of the pieces contain an incredible amount of detail that makes it unique. To me, both designers are able to create works of art with their designs. With the additions of intricate beading, elegant lace and embroidery, precise cuts, layering, and folding Chloé distinguishes each and every one of their pieces. The architecture and design of Céline's handbags speaks for itself. However, I am not only inspired by the lines of Célines bags, but also the use of monochrome and natural color palettes. Also, I love how in the third bag down, Céline incorporates the skin yet pairs it with the similar, single colored leather. I want my line's designs to speak for themselves without the use of bright colors and patterns to stand out.

I made a mood board for the architecture and design I am inspired by. I noticed that I am drawn to the clean, sleek lines of contemporary design as well as its lack of color. I also noticed I was inspired by elements of architecture and design in coastal areas. I love the incorporation of natural elements. For my line, I would like to try and create a twist on both techniques.  

As far as the architecture we saw in London, I noticed I was drawn to the long, vertical columns and symmetrical designs. Like the building in Oxford, I like the vertical feel, symmetric design, and intricate detailing in the windows and on the spires. As for bath, I enjoyed the repetition of the arcs incorporate with the columns. Rather than sticking to rectangles the arcs seem to make the architecture seem warmer and more welcoming. Although I want my clothes to have a unique architectural structure, I also want to strive to highlight the natural form of the body. Additionally, I am inspired by the gates of Kensington palace. I enjoy the contrast between the more simple lines of the iron with the intricate, floral detailing of the gold work. If the gates were completely made of black iron, i do not think they would not seem as interesting or eye catching. I love the photo from Hampton Court; however, I am not sure why I am so drawn to the area. This particular part of the building is not that unique architecturally; however, I love the natural growth against the brick. I also appreciate the golden work around the arch. Similarly, in my line I would like to take simple designs and make them unique by adding detailing - just like the gold work attached to the brick. 

Church in Oxford

Roman baths

Arch at Hamton Court

The Gates at Kensington Palace

Historic Dresses 

Lace and embroidery detailing

Embroidery, beading, appliques, and silhouette detailing
2012 dress of the year

Use of feathers and black/white contrast

Very intricate beading

Feathers, silhouette, cut, architecture details
2011 dress of the year

All of the above were chosen from the array of dresses seen on display at the Museum of Fashion in Bath because each dress contains an element that I would like to draw on for my own personal line. Specifically, each dress has a certain amount of detailing through embroidery, ruffles, beading, feathers plus a superb shape, silhouette, and cut that set it apart from others like it. As aforementioned, I want consumers to feel like when they purchase an item from my collection - it is something that can not be found elsewhere - whether it be due to design specifically or quality as well.